A well fitting pair of cycle shorts can then be teamed with a loose-fitting lightweight cotton top, preferably breathable, a pair of comfy trainers, sunglasses to keep dust and grit out of eyes and that other essential piece of riding kit, a cycle helmet. If budgets allow, invest in a pair of bike gloves to protect hands in the event of a fall and also to stop hands losing their grip on the handlebars in hot sweaty conditions.

If budgets allow, invest in a comfortable pair of cycle shorts as an essential piece of clothing to wear when cycling off-road. Team them with a cheap pair of bike mitts if required and a loose-fitting breathable jersey for a care-free day out on a mountain bike.

If you are an avid mountain biker and are fed up of dealing with flat tires on a recurring basis, then tubeless mountain bike tires could be just the thing for you. Though tubeless tires are not completely immune from flats, they are definitely more resistant than your regular tires. Admittedly though, a lot more maintenance and care needs to be given to such tires, so this is a trade-off that you should be willing to make before you switch to such tires.

The biggest advantage of such tires is naturally the lessened frequency of punctures and flats. A puncture occurs when the tire hits against a rock and the tube smashes against the inner rim (this is known as a pinch flat). With the absence of the rim, such an incident cannot occur. The only times you will face a flat tire is when the tire actually gets ripped externally. Another notable advantage of these tires is that they can be run at a lower pressure, and as a result of this, they offer better traction and steering capability, thanks to the increased control.

In spite of these advantages, tubeless mountain bike tires have not had much popularity since their introduction for bikes in 1999. Most automobiles and motorbikes produced today come equipped with tubeless tires, but mountain bikes are something else altogether. This technology has been around since the early 1950′s, but it is only recently that it has caught on in a big way.

There are plenty of reasons why tubeless tires are still not very popular for mountain bikes today. The most important thing is that they are pretty expensive, and they are also heavier. This increases the load on the bike, and thus the rider has to pedal harder. Though they get damaged less often, they are harder to fix when they do get damaged. This is because only a tire rip can cause a puncture, and this requires a complete tire overhaul. Moreover, filling air in a tubeless tire cannot be done without the help of a compressor, and this increases efforts and cost required to fill up the tires. There are not many different types of sizes and tread patterns available in the market when it comes to tubeless mountain bike tires (MBT).

You can get an idea about the high price for these tires by seeing the Mavic UST (Universal System Tubeless). This was the first such set of tires available for mountain bikes, and today this UST and similar packages will cost you a minimum of $600. This is because the package contains many different components like tires, rims and valves. Cheaper packages have been introduced which can also help you convert existing tires into tubeless tires with the help of a sealant. Tubeless mountain bike tires sealants are generally avoided by professionals because their presence can lead to blockage in the valves which can cause a serious accident at high speeds. Most professionals prefer to use tubeless tires on the best mountain bike though.

Ultimately, tubeless mountain bike tires are perfect for riders who want a smoother ride and wish to avoid punctures, but do not mind putting in the extra money and maintenance that comes along with the package. The riding style and the terrain also determine whether tubeless tires are a better option or not. Additionally, when you are carrying out tubeless mountain bike tires repairs, you can also carry an extra tube that can be inserted inside. This is possible only if the tire has not been ripped apart. Consult this mountain bike buyers guide for related information.

You need to carry out a lot of research and careful study before you start using tubeless tires. Learn about them all that you can, and also ensure that they are compatible with your rims and other bike parts. Learn how to repair tubeless mountain bike tires, and also learn about the adjustments that you can make to tire pressure. The improved performance that you achieve will definitely be worth all the trouble.

Things to consider for both headlights and taillights:
Constant and Flashing Modes: For headlights, consider one with both constant and flashing modes and a way to easily and safely switch between between the two while riding. Constant mode is ideal for dark areas, particularly where there are no street lamps or other sources of constant illumination on the riding surface. Flashing mode helps the rider stand out in areas where a constant light would otherwise blend in with surroundings such as street lamps, motor vehicle headlights and traffic lights. For taillights, a flashing light is safest to help the rider stand out among other red lights such as motor vehicle taillights. Most taillights come preprogrammed with multiple flashing modes as well as a constant mode.

Clips and Brackets: The quality of plastic is important, particularly in colder weather when plastic becomes more brittle. This can cause the clip or bracket to break if bumped or jostled too hard. Pliable, more rubber-like plastics will be less brittle in colder temperatures than hard plastics. Headlight brackets should allow some side-to-side movement of the light so the rider can adjust it to see as needed. Many taillights come with a bracket to attach to a bicycle seat post and have clips built into the light to use on the bracket, bicycle seat bags, clothing, etc. Also, be sure the clip will secure the light to whatever it is clipped. A rider who loses or breaks a taillight risks their safety when riding among motor vehicles. Also, consider buying from a manufacturer that makes new clips and brackets easy to purchase.

Side Illumination: Purchase a headlight and taillight that also have illuminated lenses on both sides of the light. This will help a rider to be more visible to motorists beside or perpendicular to the bike. Headlights will be white. Taillights will be red or amber.

Multiple Lights: A headlight attached to the handlebar is good for dedicated front illumination and side visibility, but consider also using a helmet light which will follow the rider’s head movement and help them see where they are looking. Having a high- and low-mounted headlight also increases a rider’s visibility to motorists. It also increases visibility to have a high- and low-mounted flashing taillight.

Battery: One major type of headlights use a rechargeable battery pack. The other type uses standard one-time use alkaline or rechargeable nickel-metal hydride batteries such as AA and AAA. Lights with rechargeable battery packs generally are heavier, more expensive, and come in three parts — light pod, battery pack, and power cables to connect the two. They do, however, tend to output more light than their counterpart. If choosing a system with a battery pack, it is suggested to purchase an extra battery pack to use while the other is charging. Taillights generally run on AA or AAA batteries.

Another benefit is arriving at your job refreshed and alert. It may be tough to get up earlier for the ride in, but the physical and mental lift of exercise will carry you through that 10 a.m. letdown that your sedentary colleagues experience. Then you ride home, clearing cobwebs and blowing away job-related frustrations. You’re refreshed and ready for evening responsibilities or family fun.

Commuting Logistics
• Use a small backpack to carry clothes, lunch and papers. A waist strap helps eliminate swaying and bouncing as you ride.
• Keep a pair of shoes at work so you don’t have their weight and sharp edges in the pack. Take the week’s clothes to work on Monday morning and shuttle them home Friday afternoon, or whatever arrangement fits your situation.
• Clean up in the restroom with a lightly soaped washcloth. Meanwhile, get coworkers interested in commuting and lobby your boss to install a shower.
• Dress in your office if it has a door. If not, use the restroom or a storage room.
• Play on the way home. Scout out a longer route and ride for an hour or more as time and commitments allow. Do intervals, time trials, or hit the hills hard to get a great workout while you’re homeward bound.

If commuting simply won’t work for you, here are two popular options:

Early Bird Special
Consider an early-morning workout. By the middle of March it’s usually light enough to get in a ride before work. At dawn there are few cars on the road and the day is brightening every minute. Getting up in the pre-dawn hour may be the ultimate test of whether you really want to ride. Roll out of bed the minute the alarm rings and don’t think about anything. The longer you lie there moaning about how early it is, the harder it is to extricate yourself from the sheets.
Sleep loss is the biggest risk. Make up the deficit with an earlier bedtime because it’s vital to get enough rest. Lack of sleep can lead to deep fatigue and poor performance in everything you do.

Evening Rides
If your schedule prohibits riding most of the day, try from 9 to 10 or 10:30 p.m. For most people, the kids are in bed, the chores around the house complete, and you’re probably wasting time watching TV. To make this work, eat a moderate dinner at 6 or 7 p.m., allowing the food to digest by riding time. As an additional benefit this provides motivation not to overeat.
Riding in the dark used to be dangerous because lights were poor. You couldn’t see road hazards clearly, and motorists couldn’t see you. Modern lighting systems make night riding safer, but it’s still smart to use lighted parks or suburban streets if they’re available.

Cross Country
The cross country bike is the most traditional, versatile and well-known mountain bike. Cross country bikes are designed for all types and grades of terrain and are as ideal for climbing up hills as going down. They incorporate a full selection of gears (generally 27) and are the lightest bikes available (between 20 and 30 lbs.). Cross country bikes can be rigid (no suspension), hardtail (just front suspension) or full suspension, depending upon the specific make and model. Suspension systems offer much less travel than freeride bikes, up to 4 or 5 inches. Cross country bikes are well-suited to the average mountain biker who is looking to ride mountain bike trails up hills and mountains, as well as down. Prices range vastly depending upon suspension, components, weight, etc. Many companies offer various performance/price levels such as race, trail and entry level categories (high to low).

All Mountain
Splitting the difference between cross country and freeride mountain bikes, many companies offer an in-between category that compromises the advantages of both styles. The name may vary, but all mountain is pretty common. All mountain bikes offer full-suspension with medium travel (around 5-6 inches front and back), a full gear set and a slightly sturdier, heavier frame than a cross country.

Dirt Jumping
Dirt jumping is a subcategory of freeride and entails riding parks, hitting jumps and dropping tricks, similar to BMX. These bikes are smaller than the other types of mountain bikes and are designed with the sole purpose of hitting jumps. They have few gears and will not perform well for other styles of mountain biking. Unlike BMX bikes, dirt jump bikes have front suspension. They are best suited for serious dirt jumpers who already have another mountain bike or who just intend to dirt jump.

To make life more difficult, nearly every company out there has their own names for the aforementioned categories. Names such as backcountry, gravity and out of bounds are some such examples. Regardless of label, the characteristics are the same and with some quick background it’s easy to tell what the bike was designed for.